Scharffen Berger Ben Tre 72% Dark Chocolate

Manufacturer: Scharffen Berger
Cocoa Content: 72%
Location: Vietnam
Manufacturer Website
Rating: A

Up for review today is a single source dark chocolate bar from Scharffen Berger, the Ben Tre. This is a 72% bar made with cacao from Vietnam. The bar is a deep brown with lots of red and purple.

At first taste the palate is immediately hit with an intense, rich chocolate flavor. There are some spice notes here, with cinnamon and a touch of black pepper. This bar has a very lively, almost juicy, acidity which brings out flavors of green banana, pineapple, strawberries and citrus. Chewing the Ben Tre brings forward vanilla, fresh strawberries and cinnamon. The chocolate melts to a smooth, creamy consistency with a bit of a cooling sensation. The finish has a squirt of lemon with a dash of cinnamon. At the very tail end, there is a hint of herbal bitterness.

When I took my first taste of the Ben Tre, I literally said "Wow" out loud. This bar has an insanely good, rich chocolate flavor and a great, vibrant acidity. I really want to give this bar an A+ rating based on taste alone, but there are a few minor issues separating this bar from perfection. First, the acidity is so dominant that some subtle undertones are a bit muted. Secondly, there is a faint off note of herbal bitterness at the tail end. Despite these quibbling issues, the folks at Hershey have nailed it with the Scharffen Berger Ben Tre. You owe it to yourself to try this dark chocolate bar ASAP.

Scharffen Berger Sweetened Natural Cocoa Powder

Manufacturer: Scharffen Berger
Manufacturer Website

Although the purist in me was strongly considering the unsweetened cocoa powder, I realized that most of the time I would be using this to make hot chocolate so I decided to go with the sweetened cocoa. The Scharffen Berger cocoa powder is brownish-red in color. It looks similar to red clay soil. The tiny flecks of sugar are visible and look like diamond powder mixed in with the cocoa.

I followed the directions on the package to make both hot cocoa and cold chocolate milk. The first step is to mix the dry cocoa powder with a small amount of water to make a paste, which is to help the cocoa mix evenly and easily in the milk. Mixing the paste both looks and smells like mixing up a batch of brownie batter.

My first cocoa tasting was made by mixing the paste with cold 2% milk. The chocolate milk had a deep brown color, similar to a good chocolate ice cream. The aroma was rich and chocolatey. The flavor was initially very rich like a chocolate milkshake. As initial creaminess dies down, more complex chocolate notes such as bitterness and slight fruitiness were noticeable. The finish showed the bitter notes of a good dark chocolate. Heated, the hot chocolate had a very similar flavor profile, but the aroma was much more intense with a deep, rich chocolate aroma. The strong dark chocolate flavor lends itself more to sipping than chugging, but this is a very tasty cocoa either hot or cold. Dark chocolate fans should definitely give this a try.

Scharffen Berger 68% Cacao Dark Milk Chocolate

Manufacturer: Scharffen Berger
Cocoa Content: 68%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B-

Today's tasting is something fairly unique. The Scharffen Berger 68% Cacao Dark Milk Chocolate bar is a high-cocoa content milk chocolate containing ground cacao nibs. This is an interesting combination, and the question is whether this a dark chocolate bar with some milk chocolate qualities, a milk chocolate bar with some dark chocolate flavor, or some magical perfect marriage of milk and dark chocolate? Let's find out...

The Scharffen Berger 68% Dark Milk Chocolate is deep reddish-brown in color. It has a crisp snap, but it does seem a bit softer that a dark chocolate with a similar cocoa percentage. On the palate, sweet cream and caramel flavors come to the forefront. There is a mild acidity as well. Coffee and earthy tones are present in the background. Vanilla and caramel flavors come forward as the chocolate is chewed. The Scharffen Berger Dark Milk Chocolate has a creamy mouthfeel with a bit of crunch from the fine ground cacao in the bar. The finish is fairly short with a caramel latte flavor that is accentuated by a touch of lingering bitterness.

The Scharffen Berger 68% Dark Milk Chocolate is quite unique. It is definitely a milk chocolate bar first, both from a flavor and a texture standpoint. The higher cocoa content definitely adds a richer chocolate flavor, but the added bitterness and cacao pieces tend to counter some of the desireable qualities in a milk chocolate. This is a good chocolate, but I find the marriage of milk and dark chocolate to be a bit of a clash where neither side gets to show its finest qualities to the fullest.

Scharffen Berger 82% Cacao Extra Dark Chocolate

Manufacturer: Scharffen Berger
Cocoa Content: 82%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+

Today I'm reviewing the third and final dark chocolate from Scharffen Berger, their 82% Cacao Extra Dark chocolate bar. For those of you who who aren't experienced with dark chocolate with very high cocoa content, one thing to keep in mind is that small differences in cocoa percentages make a bigger difference in flavor (and bitterness) the higher you go. For example, a 70% cocoa chocolate is roughly 30% sugar, but an 82% cocoa chocolate is only 18% sugar. That's almost half the sugar content of the 70% chocolate.

The Extra Dark bar has a very firm, crisp snap to it. It is deep mahogany brown in color, with noticeable redness especially along the snap line. The chocolate has bitter espresso and lemony acidity as it's dominant flavors. The acidity is nearly strong enough to drown out the bitterness, despite the high cocoa percentage. Chewing the chocolate releases honey and peaty notes. There is a smooth mouthfeel that is slightly astringent. The finish of the Scharffen Berger Extra Dark is fairly long. It takes a while for the tartness to fade, but then salt and earthy notes make their appearance over the long black coffee finish.

Normally with a lower cocoa percentage the sweetness provided by the sugar content helps balance out the bitterness of a dark chocolate. Once you start to hit the higher cocoa percentages sugar alone is not enough to keep the bitterness of the cocoa in check. The Scharffen Berger 82% Chocolate bar takes the right approach when it comes to balancing the bitterness of a high cocoa percentage chocolate by using acidity as a counterpoint. Unfortunately, it seems like the balance point was overshot a bit here and the scales are tipped in favor of the tartness. There is a lot of good flavor here, but a bit of it is washed out by the amount of acidity.

Scharffen Berger 70% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate

Manufacturer: Scharffen Berger
Cocoa Content: 70%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: A+

The Scharffen Berger 70% Bittersweet chocolate was really the first chocolate that opened my eyes to the potential that fine chocolate has to rival wine, scotch and beer in flavor and complexity. I've had many good dark chocolates before, but the first time I tried the Scharffen Berger Bittersweet I was truly amazed.

The Scharffen Berger 70% chocolate bar has a firm, clean snap to it. It is a deep dark brown with the faintest hint of red. There are roasted notes, a citrus acidity and dark chocolate bitterness all present on the palate in perfect balance. Vanilla and almond flavors develop along with a hint of salt as the bar melts on the tongue. Chewing the bar releases more aromatic flavors like cherry and vanilla. As the Scharffen Berger Bittersweet 70% melts on the tongue it has a smooth velvet mouthfeel that coats the tongue pleasantly. The finish lingers with sweet fruit and roasted flavors accompanying the rich chocolate flavors.

To date, the Scharffen Berger 70% Cacao is my favorite chocolate. It has all the flavor components I look for in good chocolate, and in perfect balance. This is a must-try for all my fellow cacao-heads out there.

Scharffen Berger 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate

Manufacturer: Scharffen Berger
Cocoa Content: 62%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B

The first dark chocolate we have lined up from Scharffen Berger is the 62% semisweet chocolate bar. The bar is a deep mahogany with some purple and red tones noticible. The chocolate bar has a firm, crisp snap to it. The initial impression on the palate is of sweet notes such as maple and vanilla. Acidity slowly starts to build under the sweetness and gives rise to citrus notes. Chewing the chocolate leads to sweeter fruit flavors like maraschino cherries. There is a soft, smooth mouthfeel with a somewhat thin consistancy as it melts on the tongue. There is a fairly short finish with marshmallow and citrus notes.

The Scharffen Berger Semisweet Chocolate is a pretty good beginner's dark chocolate bar as there is very little bitterness of note despite the 62% cacao content. To my taste I do find that while the sweetness brings some interesting flavors, it seems to mask some deeper flavor notes.

Scharffen Berger Week!

Welcome to the first Critical Tastings theme week. This week I've decided to feature chocolate from one of my all time favorite chocolate makers, Scharffen Berger. Unfortunately, my decision was based mainly because I haven't been able to find any Scharffen Berger chocolate at any local retailers and decided to stock up online. Hershey purchased Scharffen Berger in 2005 and Dagoba back in 2006, and they finally closed the door on the San Francisco Scharffen Berger plant in early 2009. Hershey is still producing both lines at their Illinois plant under their Artisan Confection brand, but I can't help but be concerned that I've had a hard time finding Scharffen Berger locally.

On tap this week we have three dark chocolates of varying percentages. I also have a few other surprises up my sleeves. So without further ado, let the chocolate begin...

Day 1: Scharffen Berger 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate Bar
Day 2: Scharffen Berger 70% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate Bar
Day 3: Scharffen Berger 82% Cacao Extra Dark Chocolate Bar
Day 4: Scharffen Berger 68% Cacao Dark Milk Chocolate
Day 5: Scharffen Berger Sweetened Natural Cocoa Powder